More Repair Examples for Common Dryers |
Whirlpool Standard Dryer:
The standard Whirlpool dryer is one of the most common dryers in America. It is characterized by a lint trap that is located on the top-right of the dryer as shown in the picture. The lint screen is about 6 inches wide and a foot and a half long. This dryer is a “work-horse”. This basic design has been around since the late 1960's. It goes by the Whirlpool name, as well as Kenmore (model number starting in 110), Kitchenaid, Roper, and Inglis. It is not uncommon for this dryer model to last 25+ years. There are many of the original late ‘60 dryers still in existence. I see 70's model Whirlpool made dryers of this type on a regular basis that are still running well. The parts haven't changed much since its inception and because there are so many of these dryers out there (in the millions), the parts are readily available. The parts are also reasonably priced. The repair examples below are for electric dryers. Although we work on gas dryers in the Raleigh area - and the pricing for them is a bit more, most of the dryers in North Carolina are of the electric type.
Standard Whirlpool/Kemore Dryer - Note Lint Trap on Top Right
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Some common repairs for this dryer in the Raleigh/Wake Forest NC area include:
Symptom: NO HEAT
Typical Causes:
Heating element:
Most common reason for failure.
Thermal cutoffs:
The thermal cutoff(s) will go bad when the dryer overheats. This can occur for many reasons - primarily due to bad or clogged venting. During this repair, not only do both of the cutoffs need to be replaced, but the underlying cause of them failing must be addressed. Other things that can cause the dryer to overheat is a clogged lint trap. If this lint trap has been neglected and not cleaned for several loads, the dryer can most definitely overheat. Also, a bad thermostat can cause the heater to stay on for too long - burning out the thermal cutoffs. Another thing that can happen is that the element can short out against it's enclosure. This grounds it out. The heater in this case will run all the time. Although this is not common, both the heating element and thermal cutoffs would need to be replaced. This repair takes longer than that of a heating element replacement because of the extra time involved in seeking out the cause of the overheating.
In most cases your dryer venting (in the walls or at the exit) will need to be thoroughly cleaned. In the Raleigh area in the Spring season,it is common for squirrels or birds to try and build a nest at the exit of the dryer vent. If the flap on the outside is broken or the screen is missing, there is an open invitation for animals to build nests at the output of the dryer vent. In the Raleigh Area, spring time is when birds tend to build nests in the output of dryer vents. The birds can get quite far into the venting - so If this has happened, you will likely need the vent cleaned. Click here for more information.
Symptom: RUMBLING OR SQUEALING WHEN RUNNING
This is commonly caused by the two rollers that support the back of the drum failing. This repair requires a complete disassembly of the dryer. It is not a bad idea to replace the belt at this point. It could also be caused by a bad idler assembly.
A typical repair for this symptom:
Replace roller bearings
Whirlpool heavy duty dryer:
The heavy duty Whirlpool dryer includes the Duet, the Kenmore Elite (110 model number prefix), and the standard heavy duty dryer. It is characterized by a removable panel on the bottom front of the dryer, and a lint trap that is just below the door. The Duet and Kenmore Elite series dryers have electronic controls and see-through doors. They are the same dryer with different names. The standard heavy duty dryer was introduced in the late 1980s. The Duet and Elite dryers came later when the electronic technology was available to support such a model. Replacing heating elements and thermal cutoffs in most of these dryers is a straight-forward task. Replacing roller bearings on them is more complicated - particularly on the Duet/Elite style units.
Standard Heavy Duty Dryer Duet or Kenmore Elite Style Dryer
Typical Repairs
Symptom: NO HEAT
Most often the heating element.
Thermal Cutoffs:
Thermal Cutoffs will burn out in this model of dryer for the same reasons that they do in the standard Whirlpool dryer.
Symptom: RUMBLING OR SQUEALING WHEN RUNNING
This is commonly caused by failing roller bearings. This model has 4 heavy duty rollers. If one of them is bad, the others are likely not far behind. All four rollers should then be replaced. The Duet/Elite models require more steps to disassemble and thus take more time. Again, particularly in these models, it is not a bad idea to replace the belt. A typical repair for this would be:
Replace all four roller bearings:
Duet/Elite Models:
Replace Idler Assembly:
Standard Heavy Duty Dryer
Duet/Elite Models:
GE Dryers
The common GE dyers typically have the followng suymptoms
- Scraping sound when tumbling
- No Heat
- Start knob issues
- Won't start
Symptom: Scraping Sound when tumbling
Scraping sound when tumbling - Minor repair
This is normally caused by bearing issues at the front of the drum. There are two layers of protection for the front bearing. The first layer consists of bearing slides.
Scraping Sound when tumbling - Full bearing service
This repair involves doing that of the repair described just prior, as well as replacing the entire bearing and sometimes the front felt seal.
Symptom: No Heat
This is almost always caused by a bad element. Replacing the element on GE dryers requires a complete disassembly of the dryer. The drum and everything needs to come out. The element assembly on GE encompasses the entire inside-back of the dryer. The element itself is quite expensive. We normally don't replace the entire assembly. An alternative to replacing the entire element assembly is to re-string it. This is much cheaper - and has the same outcome.
Start Knob issues
The start knob/switch assembly on basic GE dryers tends to wear out after a few years. The right-turn method of staring the dryer is very hard on both the swtich and knob. Many people tend to try and "over-turn" the knob - resulting in wearing out the switch shaft, and/or breaking the knob. As long as the console (which houses the switch) is intact, the repair in the Raleigh/Wake Forest area typically ends up being:
Start Knob issue - replace inner switch and knob.
Symptom: GE Dryer won't start
This is more often than not caused by a broken belt. When the belt breaks, the belt switch turns off - cutting off power to the motor. Replacing the belt often involves repacing the idler assembly, which is often the reason the belt broke in the first place. This repair in Raleigh or Wake Forest will usually be:
Replace idler assembly and belt:
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